The Westmore Family

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4c/TheWestmoreBrothers.jpg/350px-TheWestmoreBrothers.jpg
Perc, Wally and Bud Westmore

The Westmore Family is a famous family which did makeup in Hollywood. Start from George Westmore, the family has had four generations worked as make-up artists in various areas since George's establishment of Hollywood's first make-up department in 1917. The English Wigmaker George Westmore is named as the Makeup artist and hair stylist in the awards that he has got and he founded the first film makeup department at Selig Studio in 1917. By 1926, Monte, Perc, Ern and Bud (George's sons) had already become the top makeup artist who worked at four major studios and develop the makeup industry further until the end of their careers.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggEF8su56RCrMFrGZqPdwkZtyIyDSsWdx-HxqwJXmtAh1lCzCZ5AbyViylG_ZfRyAcrl5Xjiu43XQl9RkcgIukEIYwMK-kto1OFEXnN2Ev4Y56fXP39rXJiWuBC2ToiANYkBmqv3T4jK02/s1600/perc-westmore-rosemary-lane-hollywood-hotel.jpg
Perc Westmore and Rosemary Lane

Percival Harry Westmore was one of the member of the Westmore family and he became the Head of the Warner Brothers makeup department. He also founded 'The House of Westmore' studio in Los Angeles with his brothers and has worked with many famous Hollywood actresses at period of time. The House of Westmore beauty salon was opened on 16th April, 1935. In 1939, the makeup look of Bette Davis in The Private Live if Elizabeth and Essex was created by Perc and the look features white complexion and no eyebrows.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6R9ljxt37mVeCyNARHd6giDk5kD0UXeQLIJWBNBsPrXnQXRMQ5Zmx_eazmOGpY7BcY2B-qyMxKAkZhoC_BGQx3EF6pHkDgudvQqbd3qyN3nujBXK0sZUTrWS_wAsldDKiNRHLVT8NXmZs/s1600/wally.jpg
Wally Westmore and Audrey Hepburn

Wally Westmore was one of the members of the Westmore family and he also worked as film makeup artist as well. He headed Paramount makeup from 1926 and had worked on more than 300 films. There are some famous films that he worked for such as 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' and 'To catch a thief', etc.

http://www.filmreference.com/images/sjff_04_img1636.jpg
Bud Westmore

Bud Westmore has led the Universal's makeup department for twenty-three years who specializing in rubber prosthetics. He worked as a makeup artist too and he has worked on over 450 movies and television shows such as 'Man of a Thousand Faces' and 'To Kill a Mockingbird', etc.

I think the members in the Westmore family are all amazing as they have developed their career successfully and how they contribute to the makeup industry during their lifetime.

Overview of the the key films and actors who portrayed Elizabeth

Cate Blanchett

'Elizabeth' in 1998

Elizabeth is a 1998 biographical film written by Michael Hirst, directed by Shekhar Kapur, and Cate Blanchett is in the title role of Queen Elizabeth 1 of England.This film is based on the early years of Elizabeth's reign.

 

Hair and makeup designer: Jenny Shircore

Makeup artist: Anita Burger

Overview 

The film is about the young Elizabeth who elevated to the throne and became the Queen. It is also about the early stages when the time Elizabeth was reigned. In the film, it also include the story line where Elizabeth embarks on an affair with Robert Dudley but she eventually ends her affair and resolves to people that she not gonna marry nobody except England. The film ends with Elizabeth being the character of the 'Virgin Queen' saying 'I am married to England" which initiating the England's Golden Age.

'Elizabeth- The Golden Age' in 2007

Elizabeth: The Golden Age is a 2007 sequel to the 1998 film 'Elizabeth', directed by Shekhar Kapur and produced by Universal Pictures and Working Title Films. Cate Blanchett is in the title role and this film is about the history during the later part of the reign of Queen Elizabeth I.The screenplay was written by William Nicholson and Michael Hirst. The film was nominated for four BAFTA awards including Actress in a Leading Role, Best Production Design, Best Costume Design and Best Makeup.

Bette Davis



'The Private Lives Of Elizabeth And Essex' in 1939

'The Private Lives Of Elizabeth And Essex' is a 1939 drama which is directed by Michael Curtiz. The screenplay was written by Norman Reilly Raine and Æneas MacKenzie. Perc Westmore was the makeup artist. Betty Davis was on the title role of Queen Elizabeth I.
 

Overview

The drama is about a depiction of the love and hate relationship between Queen Elizabeth I and Robert Devereux, the Earl of Essex and is also about the history around middle-aged Queen Elizabeth.

'The Virgin Queen' in 1955

The Virgin Queen is a 1955 Deluxe Colour historical drama film in Cinema Dcope. It focuses on the relationship between Queen Elizabeth I of England and Sir Walter Raleigh. This drama is directed by Henry Koster,  produced by Charles Brackett and written by Harry Brown. The screenplay was written by Mildret Lord.  Perc Westmore was Bette Davis's makeup artist. Betty Davis was on the title role of Queen Elizabeth I.

Glenda Jackson

'Mary Queen of Scots' in 1971

Mary, Queen of Scots is a 1971 Universal Pictures biographical film based on the life of  Mary, Queen of Scots. The film is directed by Charles Jarrott, produced by Hal B. Wallis and written by John Hale. Glenda was on the role of Queen Elizabeth I.

 

'Elizabeth R' in 1971

Elizabeth R is a BBC television drama , starring by Glenda Jackson in the title role as Queen Elizabeth. Dawn Alcock was responsible for the makeup for Glenda Jackson's look.

 

Overview

 



There are 6 episodes: The Lion's Club, The Marriage Game, Shadow in the Sun, Horrible Conspiracies, The Enterprise of England and Sweet England's Pride. And they were all around the history of Queen Mary I of England and Elizabeth I.

 

Anne Marie Duff

 

'The Virgin Queen' in 2005

The Virgin Queen is a 2005 BBC and Power co-production, there are four part miniseries which based on the life of Queen Elizabeth I (starring by Anne Marie Duff). This drama is directed by Coky Giedroyc, produced by Paul Rutman and written by Paula Milne.

Overview

This drama focused heavily on Elizabeth's private life especially her relationship with Robert Dudley.
 

Helen Mirren

 

'Elizabeth I' in 2005

Elizabeth I is a two part 2005 British historical drama television miniseries directed by Tom Hooper, written by Nigel Williams, produced by Barney Reisz and starring Helen Mirren as Queen Elizabeth I of England. Fae Hammond is the makeup designer, Su Westwood, Gemma Richards & Jane Hope- Kavangh are the hair and makeup artists.

 

Overview

 



The miniseries covers around the last 24 years of Elizabeth I who nearly reign 45 years. Part 1 of the drama focuses on the final years of her relationship with the Earl of Leicester, played by Jeremy Irons. While Part 2 focuses on her subsequent relationship with the Earl of Essex, played by Hugh Dancy. 

 

Judi Dench

 

'Shakespeare in Love' in 1998
 

Shakespeare in Love is a 1998 British- American romantic comedy-drama film directed by John Madden, written by Marc Norman and playwright by Tom Stoppard. One of the episode is Judi Dench as the Queen Elizabeth I of England. Lisa Westcott was the film's hair and makeup designer and Veronica Brebner was senior hair and makeup artist.

 



Tudor Cosmetics

During the Elizabeths reign (1558-1603), the ideal beauty of a person was considered as white skin, rouged lips and cheeks. Elizabeth's fine bone structure was set as the standards of beauty at the English court.

http://tudorhistory.org/elizabeth/index2pic.jpg
Elizabeth I's in coronation robes
By an unknown artist
Created: between 1600 and 1610 copy of a lost original of c. 1559



Make up

During the Elizabethan era, many cosmetics were made from chemicals which damaged their skin.

Skin: A white complexion was considered as a sign of good health so in order to create the white complexion, Elizabethans used mercuric salts and also Venetian Ceruse which is also known as Spirits of Saturn, was a 16th century cosmetic used to whiten their faces and it is considered the best product at that time. The Venetian Ceruse is made from white lead, vinegar and egg's white and the pigment of white lead is poisoning which caused hair loss and makes the skin go grey. If used over a period of time, it will damage the skin badly and the worse situation is that it could cause death. The pale complexion was considered as a sign of wealth, so people from upper class have white complexion which shows their society status. White eggs were also used to hide wrinkles and get a paler complexion. During the Tudor period before Elizabeth reigned, people were more concerned about skincare and they use honey, sesame seed oil and beeswax to smoothen and soften their skin. But after Elizabeth I reigned, makeup had become popular and were more widely used.

Cheeks and lips: Rouge lips and cheeks were popular in the Elizabethan era and in order to create these effects, Elizabethans would like to use plants like madder and animal dyes such as a bettle and cochineal on their cheeks. Madder and cochineal were the materials which could be reddened by using vermilion on the lips, while the cheeks were reddened using a mixture of egg white and ochres. During the Tudor period, rouge was used to show wealth.

Eyes: During the Elizabethan era, women like to make their eyes look bigger so they used black kohl to rim their eyes and make them look darker. Belladonna was also used to enlarge their pupils so it helps to make their eyes look bigger.
 

Hair

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/af/Darnley_stage_3.jpg

Elizabeth 1's red hair colour was emulated by many of the nobility and women in the Elizabethan era and people would follow this trend by dying their hair with henna. Blonde hair is one of the Elizabethans favourite hair colour and they used oil, saffron, celadine and cumin seeds to dye and bleach their hair. The things that the Elizabethans used to dye their hair were like the ingredients they used in the white makeup which were not beneficial to their hair and damaged their hair very badly. And because due to the frequency of dyeing their hair, they have got problems of losing hair. So after that, because Elizabeth I lose hair as well, she wore wigs and hair pieces then many people started to follow her and wear wigs and hair pieces. 

 
Teeth
The Elizabethans do concerned about dental care and looking after their teeth, but they did not used the right method to clean their teeth. With the Tudor intake excessive sugar, Elizabeth I 's teeth began blacken and her cheeks began to cave in as well. Then, because of Elizabeth's blackening teeth, people started to follow the trend of blackening their teeth and it became an Elizabethan status symbol. This fashion trend was popular among the upper class Elizabethans and because sugar was an expensive thing at their period of time, only rich people could afford a lot of sugar, it became a status symbol of nobility.

Book references:

• fACING beauty: PAINTED WOMEN & COSMETIC ART by aileen ribeiro PAGE 80,82,83,85,222,223
• fashion in makeup: from ancient to morden times by Richard corson page 103,112,113

Historical research of Elizabethans beauty and culture

Cosmetics were not widely popular during the reign of Mary I (c.1516-1558) but after the coronation of Queen Elizabeth I, makeup had become popular and widely being used. This was mainly influenced by the Italian women and their culture had brought into England. During the Elizabethans era, the Elizabethan view of pure beauty was a woman with white skin, rouged lips and cheeks and light hair.

Queen Elizabeth I

Many cosmetics were made from dangerous chemicals in the Elizabethan era and mercuric salts is an example which were used to whiten the complexion. Women from upper class got a pale and white complexion and it was a sign of wealth and nobility. While lower class women were expected to work outside, so they had got pink and tanned skin. Queen Elizabeth I's white complexion was viewed as the standards of beauty at the English court, so it was very important for her to maintain her image and the beauty of a 'Virgin Queen' as many people followed her beauty trend. This white complexion was therefore considered by Elizabethan men as well because of the popularity and there is one more reason that Elizabethans used the white makeup on their face because it was useful for hiding the signs of ageing.

During the Elizabethan era, women liked to used black kohl to rim their eyes and make them look darker. Belladonna was also used so to enlarge their pupils and make their eyes look bigger.

Rouge lips and cheeks were popular in the Elizabethan era and it symbolises wealth .  

In the 1590's, a decade in which people started to comment and questioned on the extremes of dresses and makeup on English women's appearance.
Shakespeare has written a poet called Sonnet 80 which regarding the female beauty in the Elizabethan era. On below are the lines that Shakespeare commented on Elizabethans women within his poem.

'My mistress' eyes are nothing like the sun,
Coral is far more red than her lips' red:
If snow be white, why then her breasts are dun...
I have seen roses damask'd red and white,
But no such roses see I in her cheeks'

Book references:

• facing beauty: pAINTED WOMEN & COSMETIC ART by aileen ribeiro PAGE 82,85,86,223
• Fashions in makeup: from ancient to morden times by Richard corson page 101,103,105

London Trip 10/10/2014

Yesterday, I have gone to London National Portrait Gallery, Charles Fox and Mac. On below are the photos of the places that I went and the products that I've bought there.

First stop: National Portrait Gallery, St Martins Place, London WC2H 0HE

In the National Portrait Gallery, I have found many Elizabethans portraits at the Tudor Section which is useful for my Elizabethans Project.

Second Stop: Charles Fox - 22 Tavistock Street, Convent Garden, London WC2H 9EP



Kryolan have been supplying the film, theater and television industries for over sixty-six years and it is one of the world’s first professional make-up brands. They offers ranges of high-quality make-up products and accessories and their products are very long lasting, great quality and is comfortable to wear.

The reason I go to Charles Fox because they offers a lot of special effects products and makeup products. As you can see the photos above, they layout part of their products in the window. 



These are the products that I've bought from Charles Fox

One of the makeup artist there explained their products and the uses of them. The people there have good service and I've learnt more about how and when to use the different products.
List of products (From Left to Right):

• Glitter Shaker (UV Pink) - For hair, body and party application
• Multi Gel - For glittery body and hair effects
• Supracolour Interferenz Teint (Schminke)
• Supracolour (Interferenz)

I bought those products is because I think it will be useful for my digital photography project about monochromatic colours and I have chosen the colour theme Pink for my project. 

Final Stop: MAC- 27 James Street, Convent Garden, London WC2E 8PA

MAC (Make-up Artist Cosmetics) is a manufacturer of cosmetics headquartered in New York City and it was founded in Toronto, Ontario, Canada by Frank Toskan, Frank Angelo and Vic Casale in 1984 . The company's products at first were produced specifically for professional makeup artists, but nowadays, the products are sold to consumers around the world and becomes a very famous makeup brand which everyone knows.

These are the products that I've bought in MAC



 

The reason I go to MAC is because they offer a variety of high quality cosmetics products such as eye-shadow, lipstick, nail polish and skin care products etc. The people there have good service but I was quite disappointed that I can't see the prices of some products.

List of products:

 Matte Lipstick -A34





 

 Cream blend Blush- Posey

 

I bought the matte lipstick is because I think it might be useful for my Elizabethans project and I like the colour of it and the matte texture of the lipstick is very nice as well. I've also bought the cream blend blush (the colour posey) is because I like how the texture is smooth and easy to blend after apply it on the face. 

 

 

  



Introducing myself...

I'm a 18 years old, undergraduate student who is currently studying Make-up and Hair Design at Southampton Solent University. Before I go to university, I was studying A-levels fine art, photography and graphic art. My genuine interest in Make Up and Hair Design sparked when my friends asked me to do their makeup for special events and this is the reason why I'm studying make-up and hair design now. \(^V^)/
My initial thoughts about the first project 'The New Elizabethan' is learning history from the Elizabethans era. Also, I will be looking at how the styles from the Elizabethans reflect the fashion from nowadays. There are a few facts that I know about the Elizabethans era such as people with high forehead tend to be more intelligent so it was common for the Queen to have a large forehead. Society was divided into different classes and different classes wore a certain colour to represent their classes. The pale skin was the sign of wealth and nobility and also the eyebrows are thin and arched.
I'm looking forward to this project as I can design my own look and watch my partner to create the look on me. Also, I can't wait to learn new skills and techniques from this project which helps to build my pathway to become a makeup artist.

The Face Chart

First time creating a makeup look on a face chart

Found it very interesting to use makeup to draw on the face chart!

Equipments:

• Face chart
• Makeup brushes
• Eyeshadow
• lip palette
• Bronzer